. . . Leaving at dawn, she noted that
their first stop would be at the windmill, for water.
The party had arrived August 13. At a place she called Indian Traders
(Hadleys) she wrote that it was her first chance to write in
her journals and to change into suitable attire for riding horseback,
debating the issue of riding side saddle versus riding astride her
horse. That evening because storm clouds threatened, Alice and Natalie
shared a tent.
. . At Ganado, Arizona, near Hubbell Trading Post (today
a National Historical site), Miss Klauber enjoyed a camp surrounded
by hogans. Pinion and Cedar trees added a sense of life to a seemingly
lifeless landscape of cacti, flint rock and petrified wood. Her group
rusticated in out-doors living with tents serving as dressing rooms.
Native games, mostly races, they observed allowed them to see some
six or seven hundred Navajos and a few Hopis.
. . For Miss Klauber a tug of war was the most exciting,
noting especially a chief on horseback urging on his side so intently
that he saw no one and in the process nearly running me down.
Douglas grabbed her from harms way and held her until the game
was over. She must have accepted an apology from the chief since she
noted his embarrassment, but grinning fondly, a handsome fine
. . The groups reception by the Navajo seemed
favorable. The two must have endeared themselves and been given tribal
names by the natives or by Natalie, for in a dedication in the front
of a copy of Natalies book, the author uses: To Noi-ya-hoi-nim
(Alice Klauber) from the companion of her first visit to the Hopi
people - Tawi-Mana, the Song Woman (Natalie) - Natalie Curtis. August
21st, 1913. Natalie was singing their songs, much to their delight.
Invitation to enter their hogans was a great privilege. Here Interior
culture was of an absorbing interest for Miss Klauber who described
skins, blankets, pots, pans, plenty of children, and dogs.
Personal adornment such as silver buttons and jewelry, also, caught
her attention. Her word description of the face and smile of one woman
was compared to that of Madame Schumann-Heink when she was pleased.
The Wagnerian diva, and San Diego resident from 1910, was among Miss
Klaubers circle of friends and acquaintances.
Miss Klauber and Native American rider at games, possibly the Chief
mentioned in the text, courtesy of the Klauber family.
. . At Hubbells, the group got into a Ford machine
for a thirty-seven mile, hot and dry, ride to Chinle, Arizona (or
Navajo reservation). From here, with Ken Shelley, an Indian from Ft.
Defiance, they drove into Canyon de Chelley (now a National Monument)
and after moonrise they ate. Out door accommodations were
in order and Alice and Natalie spent the night in the moonshade
of a great bluff on a sand heap with a fine slope. Grazing
horses near by and an Indian dog barking at Douglas who walked
across the canyon at mid-night interrupted their sleep.
After a day trip through the canyon and an evening of restless sleep,
they traveled to Keam Canyon (today a Hopi reservation). A cool and
pleasant day soothed tempers by the time they reached Pertes
store and their next camping area. The two women shared a
whole wooded hill among cedars and above a stream. At Keams
Canyon, she had a beautiful view of a herd of goats on a hillside.
Shopping wasnt totally ignored as she noted and purchasing Kachinas
at the store and a yellow hankie that she traded
a Navajo for some turquoise. That night the group was below First
Mesa with all cross and tired.
. . . The following day Miss Klauber
described the friendly reception by the people who were wild
about my navy blue scarf on my hat. Many were house cleaning
in anticipation of the Snake Dance visitors. The next day the group
of scholars was at the Second and Third Mesas, that Miss Klauber found
the most picturesque and dirtiest. In the morning
they witnessed the Flute Ceremony. At days end, they slept in
government accommodations at Oraibio, Third Mesa.
. . . On August 21, Miss Klauber climbed
the Walpi Trail in time to see the end of one of the races. She met
Theodore Roosevelt, who had been traveling in Arizona on horseback,
and had a short conversation with him and liked him immensely
and thanked him for his work. No following elaboration about
the meeting has appeared in research to indicate mentioning it again.
Miss Klauber met him one more time during the 1915 San Diego California
Exposition, when the former President attended the Exposition. While
he was in San Diego, he stayed at the home of Alice Lee, a cousin
of Roosevelts first wife. Miss Klauber and Miss Lee knew one
another as art and cultural activists in San Diego.
photographer, The members of the group.
. . While Miss Klauber was writing in her journals, Natalie
Curtis was engaged in conversation with Harry the Snake Priest
sitting in the shade and receiving shells. Several days
later, Alice Klauber was at the house of Hopi potter Nampeyo where
the family was listening to Natalie singing. In the afternoon a man
near Natalie was persuaded to sing. Schindler noted the music on score
paper and a translator was nearby. Miss Klauber wrote with her usual
vivid observations about native home life and activity that was relatively
unknown to early twentieth century readers.
. . . Sketching occupied some of Miss
Klaubers time toward the end of the month at a camp south of
Cottonwood Wash. She sketched Sanai, the two-domed peak, one
of the most tragic formations in all Arizona. The week before
the group had been at Second Mesa with a landscape that was desolate,
yet awesome. At Second and Third Mesa, Ted photographed
profusely. It has been suggested the Ted referred to Ted
Whitaker, mentioned only later in her journal and then only after
their dispersal. There are extant photos in the Klauber family collection
that documents the first trip to the area of Miss Klauber. At journeys
end, Miss Klauber left Laguna at 11 p.m. for Los Angeles. Natalie
had stayed on to continue her work and straighten out her notes. Miss
Klauber expressed concerns about leaving her alone,
in a somewhat unsure and unfamiliar part of the country. She departed
in a pouring rain on September 4. She would return to the area again
under different circumstances.